HERETICS, PLAGUES, AND FORBIDDEN ART

TWO BY TOUR

Skull Mural In El Museo De Cultura Prohibida In Cuenca, Ecuador Dramatization of the Friday night wait at the local Applebee’s.

With streets that twist and turn and spiral upward into cul-de-sacs, it’s becoming clear that we’ll only have the opportunity to see a fraction of Cuenca in the two months before we head back to the states. Each time we leave the apartment we try to walk a new way, and with every detour we discover another bodega or empanada shop or panaderia tucked down a quiet street. We make mental notes of all these quaint shops, places we would like to explore but will probably not get around to. There are no phone numbers, no websites. Their locations are not listed on Google Maps.

Maps can be misleading as a whole here. Cuenca is a city of hills, and roads one might expect to intersect are, at times, on different levels. Conversely, stairwells and unmarked walkways will unexpectedly connect…

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